Ah…. wow… er… ah…

I came upon this over on one of the blogs I follow on the Tumblr. Bushcrafters gone wild!

It pretty much epitomizes everything I’m not likely to do when I go out camping.

Talk about “Leave No Trace”~~ Two dozen+ live trees cut for unnecessary [and U.G.L.Y., and disfunctional, and inefficient] shelter, and a hacked up stump. I just hope this was their own property. If it was public use land, or a state park, I’d be pretty upset finding this on my trip down the trail. However, from the amount of gear, I’m guessing they didn’t walk in very far.


Drip-breaks for Hammocks

Sometimes when it rains, it pours. We have all been out in our hammocks when the rain’s come down right wickud. When it rains that hard, it’s very easy for the water to migrate down your hammock suspension and eventually start soaking the ends of your rig.

Our man Shug, Master of mirth and merriment, juggler extraordinaire, and the go-to-guy for tips and videos on everything regarding hammocking, just suggests tying an old sock around your suspension. That works… not very elegant, and your socks stay wet, but it works.

I wanted something a little bit better, and something that would remain on my suspension full-time. I have been reasonably satisfied with a simple loop of mason’s twine dangling down from my continuous loops. So I took off from there.

I had some old water skiing and tubing towline. I gutted out two, 8″ sections of some half-inch line, singed the ends on the gas burner, stuck a chopstick through one end to make a hole, and pushed my continuous loop right through.


You can see the partz-is-partz on the right…

What I really like about this solution is that the drip line is back under the end of my tarp, beyond the rain. Now, I haven’t tested these out and in a real toad floater yet… I just put them on this morning. But my other solutions where I’ve had my drip lines actually on the continuous loops have always served me in good stead. I’m not sure I see the point in having drip lines attached any where further out on the suspension. The edge of my tarp is where the rain is going to stop landing.


BONUS: Hint #2~~ The yellow stuff is a slightly larger diameter ski rope that I also gutted. The two yellow sections on the left of the photo have a section of the green line inserted inside end to end. All four segments are also flame sealed at the ends. This allows me to pass some thin Dyneema/ Zing-it type line through the entire length of the doubled sections.

Why? For the same reason we all use tree straps… To Be Responsible. If I am hanging off of trees with a thin bark like Birch or Beech, These cuffs give added protection from harm by the extremely thin line that might otherwise damage the cambium layer of the bark. If too many people use the same two trees and are careless about the way they hang, the trees can suffer.


Tarps, Guylines, Bling… THE Link

It scrolls down a good ways…. Best compendium of “instructables” I’ve found so far.

>the picture is the link<<

All of these images are of stuff available elsewhere on the web, like Derek’s book and page. Link is just a Google Image search. All links/images are credited on the Google page.
I just thought it was a handy reference…

The NEW Dutchware “Chameleon” Hammock

I would be less than a friend if I didn’t give my buddy Dutch a pump up on his new hammock. Originally asking for only $22,000, this Kickstarter portion of the project has now concluded with something over $200,000 in sales. All of those hammocks are currently being shipped out, and Dutch hopes to have the retail Chameleons available for order by sometime in mid June.

I had a chance to see one of the early-bird KS versions last weekend at the group hang down in Massachusetts. I was tremendously impressed. Quality construction, flexibility of use, a really nice new suspension system…. Dutchware has really nailed it on this one. They did a great job on both the hammock as well as on the on the video below. You should get a fairly good idea of exactly what’s on offer.

You will still need both a tarp and an under quilt to complete your set up, [and of course a top quilt or sleeping bag]. However, with a Chameleon as your base, you should be able to bring your entire sleeping system in at somewhere right around 4-5 pounds for three-season use.


[I received no consideration for this post. I simply want to recognize what I believe to be an astoundingly good product.]



A Good Question

I like my home being well-hidden
A dwelling place cut off
From the world’s noise and dust
Trampling the grass has made three paths
Looking up at the clouds
Makes neighbor in the four directions
There are birds to help with
The sound of singing
But there isn’t anyone to ask about
The words of the Dharma today
Among these withered trees
How many years make one spring?

– Han-shan

The ENO OneLink Hammock System

Eagles Nest Outfitters offers this complete hammock system for around $225 [depending on the vendors]. Mine came from REI; they currently show it priced at either $209 for $219* [this does not include the two down throws shown at the top of the photo]. The price difference being between an ordinary rain fly, and the “ProFly” which is catenary cut… see below. My unit includes the “Pro Fly”. While at 4.8 lbs it is not the lightest system available, it is an excellent entry level for folks to want to try “getting up off the ground”.

[*~~I have been an REI member since the early 1970s, so I was able to apply my membership discount. Members get approximately 10% back on all purchases over the year as a credit that they can then use for further purchases. Together with the credit remaining from a returned item and a sale discount, grabbing this was a whim purchase. I had planned to give it as a gift to a friend, however, they purchased a cottage vendor hammock on their own. Since I already own several other hammocks with varying types, this leaves me with a bit of redundancy which explains why the tags are still on the components… I may end up selling this before I ever hang it up! ]

The basic OneLink system includes:

  • an ENO DoubleNest hammock~~ this is supposedly wide enough for two people, but you have to be crazy to try to sleep to people in a single hammock. A cuddle-up is fine for a day hang nap, but you’re not going to get much real rest smushed up on each other. The DN is tripartite, in that the width is achieved by adding two, different colored, fabric strips along edge. Mine is in navy blue and black.
  • an “Atlas” strap suspension~~ a pair of straps with sewn-in link-loops [called a “daisy-chain] to attach the actual hammock to the suspension wrapped around the trees.
  • the cat-cut ProFly tarp~~ a catenary-cut means that the edges have a parabolic curve that will help the sides pull more taut and flat when stretched and pegged down. This equates to less flapping in the wind, and a greater ability to easily shed rain and snow. The rectangular tarp also offered is perfectly fine… It makes the package a bit cheaper, and a preference of one over the other it’s really up to the individual. The tarp hangs from its own secondary suspension, and can be raised and lowered over the hammock depending on weather conditions.
  • the “Guardian” bug net~~ this hangs down from the hammock suspension itself, is gathered underneath, and has a side entry zipper opening.
  • [4] Y-stakes for guying out the tarp corners
  • Each component has its own dedicated drawstring bag [I believe that the DL bag is actually sewn on to the edge of the unit so that it can be used for small items when the hammock is deployed]. The whole rig can be contained in a very nice larger drawstring bag… It also has room leftover… probably enough for a summer weight under quilt
  • [ the system is also available with the single width Nest and the rectangular tarp have a slight savings. To my knowledge, the rest of the system is the same]

Two down throws that are shown in the photo are what I intend to use for a top and bottom quilt to go with this set up. Again, if you’re new to hammocking, a top quilt is virtually identical to a mummy-style sleeping bag with the zipper removed. The shape of the hammock helps contain the quilt over your body while you sleep. The silver Costco Down Throw [or CDT to the knowledgable] has already been retrofitted for a top quilt foot box by the simple expediency of  1/2″ loops sewn along the foot-end every 6 inches and gathered with a drawstring, but can still be used as a standard throw on very hot nights just by releasing the drawstring.  The CDT is 70 inches long and 60 inches wide. This is fine for someone like me who is under 5’10”. If you’re taller, you may have to find something else. An under quilt actually hangs below you, barely touching the hammock body. This allows the down to fully loft without crushing, and provides your insulation underneath to prevent the dreaded “cold butt syndrome”. The blue throw is from Eddie Bauer and is only 60 inches long by 50 inches wide. This should make for a perfectly acceptable shoulders-to-calf, summer weight, under quilt. I plan to add a full width strip of 1 foot wide ripstop nylon at the head and foot ends, with a channel for a bungee cord gather at either end. The sides will simply be turned over at the edge and sewn down. This will let me run cord for the actual suspension out to the gathered ends of the hammock.

ENO is a brand with the pretty loyal following.  My first hammock was an ENO. I was able to resell it almost immediately when I decided to move on to my AMOK. My daughter told me that around many universities going out to hang in your hammock is known as “eno-ing”.

The OneLink seems to be a nearly ideal solution for people who would like to try hammocking as an alternative without spending an arm and a leg. While top and bottom quilts are great, they are by no means necessary. You can leave the zipper open on any style bag you already havefor on top and I’m certain that for summer situations you can get by with a $15 closed-cell foam “Bluey” insulation pad from WallyWorld, or even one of the mylar windshield reflectors from the DollarTree used underneath you right in the hammock itself. The OneLink provides you with everything else you really need. Toss everything into a black garbage bag together with a bottle of water, and a can of beanie-weenies and you’re good to go hang!

As I mentioned above the total weight for the rig it is right at 4.8 pounds. ENOs come with what I consider to be a very clunky, heavyweight suspension** on the hammock itself. This is in the form of 3/8 inch polyester rope bulkily knotted through the end channels and designed to be attached to the straps with heavy stainless steel carabiners like you would see restraining the lumber racks at Home Depot. If weight is of consideration, you can quickly shave 12oz or more just by replacing the suspension with a pair of continuous loops and a stick toggle to go through the Atlas daisychain. More weight can be trimmed by replacing the”Atlas” straps with single layer polyester ones. Then even more can be lost just by discarding the individual stuff sacks and putting everything into one larger bag. You could even do away with that [as many people do] and shove everything into a layer down in your pack.

**Now, if you are unfamiliar with hammocking as yet, this a good point to stress how vitally important it is to use actual straps, and not ropes, around the trees you hang from. Your weight in a hammock will put a great deal of force on the suspension where it wraps around the back of a tree. As you jump in and out, and wriggle around swinging gaily from side to side, those forces can chafe and cause irreparable damage to the cambium layer of the tree’s bark. This is the layer that allows liquid nutrients to move from the roots to the leaves. Especially in a park, or other public place where many people might hang from the same pair of trees, over time, the tree’s ability to sustain itself could actually be compromised. Even when limited to one side of the tree, this can cause its death over time. The potential for harm has caused many public spaces, including a lot of universities, to ban hammock hanging altogether. Most straps are one inch wide, so this will spread the force much more evenly against the tree bark than would rope. In a very practical move, the State of Florida now requires the use of 2 inch wide straps in state parks and public spaces.

If I elect to keep this rig, I will certainly be swapping out my own suspension system. It is my hope that I will have a perfectly usable and complete “loaner” sleeping system that weighs in at under 5 pounds. Given that I used to tote 4 pound sleeping bags, this seems like a pretty good deal.


If you find yourself truly interested in hammocking, I would encourage you to read Derek Hanson’s great book, The Ultimate Hang. It covers all of the basics, and will take you well into the realm of fine tuning your gear to provide you with the best experience. From shaving a few ounces off your total weight no matter what hammock you are using, too how best to use your gear in safety and comfort, most of your questions will be answered. It will certainly make it easier to understand some of the esoterica I mention what I’m talking about my own hammock experiences.

EDIT~ update~ I did end up selling the entire system, including one un-modded down throw for far more than I paid for the parts… profit is GOOD! It allowed me to buy a 30° down top-quilt from one of the cottage vendors [yes… I did pay “retail”, but he gave me a substantial discount, and it was worth every penny to go against my 90%/50% rule!]